b"TERRY BETTERIDGEThe Colonel would go on to head the International Silver Factorymobile magnate Lee Iacocca visiting a Rolls-Royce factory.in Meriden, Connecticut, known at the time as Silver City. A trailblazer in efficient production, Iacocca asked the president His son, A.E. Betteridge Jr., opened the first Betteridge jewelryof Rolls-Royce about the last time the assembly line moved. I be-store in the early 20th century in New York City, on Fifth Avenuelieve it moved a week ago last Thursday, he is said to have retorted.and 45th Street. Another followed near Wall Street and Broadway inIts no different at Betteridge, Terry says, where speed and mass the citys Financial District. production are not concerns.The family later opened a boutique in the Miami Biltmore HotelIts all about the craftsmanship and using these materials we al-in Coral Gables, Florida, a historic locale that has been frequentedready recycled. Diamonds are recut. Most of the things I get are from by stars like Judy Garland and Ginger Rogers, the Duke and Duch- an estate, he says, noting watches are the exception to that rule.ess of Windsor, and former President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. From a dollar-value perspective, a majority of his inventory is Betteridge was a celebrated, high-end jeweler of the 1920s and 30s,estate jewelry, he says.crafting stunning Art Deco designs for the whos who of the age. I love the old stuff. Were the ultimate recyclers, says Terry.After World War II, A.E. passed the baton to his son Bert, whoEach time something is recycled, it picks up a little more histo-had served in the U.S. Army Air Forces during the war.ry. Recycling infuses the piece with more importance.The post-war boom had people moving out to the suburbs in droves and Bert saw an opportunity in tony Greenwich, Connecticut, pur- EXPANDING HORIZONSchasing W.D. Webb Jewelers and converting it to Betteridge Jewelers.Though Terry may not initially have pictured himself becoming a Bert would run the business for decades, until the summer ofjeweler, when the opportunity arose, he took it and ran with it.1975, when he suffered that heart attack and made the call to hisUnder his fourth-generation watch, the family business has son, Terry, for help. grown exponentially, By 1978, Terry Betteridge was steering the ship, and hes re- expanding from a single mained at the helm ever since. Im kind of astore in Connecticut to risk-taker. It couldaffluent towns in Colorado THE GREAT UNKNOWN and Florida.Though Terry descended from a long line of jewelers, he once sawbe at a craps tableIf you can think of a a different path for himself. or at a cliff wherechic American locale, When I was a little kid, I kind of wanted to be a forest ranger,theres a good chance youll recalls Terry. someone says, Ifind a Betteridge there.His love of all things wild started young and has stayed with himwonder if you canWe look at markets that throughout his life. It makes sense because hes a little wild himself.will give us contact points Im kind of a risk-taker, he says. It could be at a craps table ordive off here? andwith exceedingly good cus-at a cliff where someone says, I wonder if you can dive off here?Im gone. tomers. These destinations and Im gone. Ive done this all my flipping life. do that, says Terry.Terry channeled his love of nature into a degree in environmentalTerry BetteridgeIn 2004, Betteridge ac-science and considered becoming an environmental lawyer beforequired jeweler Gotthelfs the jewelry world came calling. in Vail, Colorado, home to That was maybe for the best, he notes, because his life as a high- the notably fancy Vail Ski Resort. A hub for winter skiing and sum-end jeweler has allowed him to contribute more to conservationmer golfing, the small town attracts wealthy visitors year-round.efforts than he would have otherwise been able to do. Betteridge met the previous owner, Paul Gotthelf, back in his foot Hes donated more than 1,000 acres in the Northeast to a con- racing days, crashing on Pauls couch whenever hed come into town servation organization. He has 2,000 acres of his own to tend infor a race.Vermont as well as around 700 in his home state of Connecticut,Hed also met the stores employees, who knew and liked him, and a lumber mill. and he helped out behind the counter now and then, too. When his Terry finds himself on his land in Connecticut one or two days afriend was ready to retire and focus on his mountain biking career, week, trimming the fields and building bluebird boxes. Terry bought the business.It does quiet the soul, he says. Its good for you.Decked out in dark wood and rich leather, the stores antler light Given his deep love of nature, it seems fitting that Terry wouldfixtures are a subtle nod to the rustic mountain surroundings just be on board with the growing sustainability efforts in the jewelryoutside the resort area.world, but its not quite that simple. In 2006, Terry got another call from a friend looking to retire and Its the cause of the moment to be sustainable, he notes, but it,Betteridge made its way to Palm Beach, Florida, acquiring historic seems a little artificial and nonsensical. What we do, the way wejeweler Greenleaf & Crosby.make our jewelry, we have done the same way for the past couple ofThe previous owner was a friend of Terrys father, and later of hundred years. Terry's, when the two shared a hotel room in Basel, Switzerland, Sustainability is inherent in the existing Betteridge practices,during the watch show there.says Terry, like recycling gold. The store reminded Terry of his own in Greenwichantique, Terry recalls an anecdote he once heard about American auto- lovely, and unchanged.Continued on page 21NATIONAL JEWELER 19"