b"THE STATE OF RETAIL COLOREDDIAMONDSJEWELRY STONES DESIGNAt the show, the company also offered two new carved gemstonemarketing, as more and more designers and retailers are conscious of collections, Occult and Zodiac, which generated interest. where their stones are coming from and use that information as part On one hand, I think working with cabochons, particularlyof their storytelling. those that are carved, allows designers to get really creative [and]I think were going to see a lot more people at later ends of offer a unique piece in anthe supply chain traveling to the source to understand exactly accessible price range,how thats working. Weve also seen a few more companies launch Natasha says. within the past year to offer this service to interested designers We also thinkWhile it can be costand retailers, Branstrator said, mentioning the nonprofit Gem theres a bit of aeffective, its also an artisticLegacy as an example.retro-inspired orchoice. While telling the stories around how and where gemstones are even Etruscan- We also think theressourced is becoming more prevalent in the fine jewelry industry, the inspired [designa bit of a retro-inspired orrules around the use of terms such as responsibly sourced, sustain-trend] surfacing ineven Etruscan-inspired [de- able, recycled, and eco-friendly are set for an overhaul.the design worldsign trend] surfacing in theIn late 2022, the Federal Trade Commission voted unanimously that celebrates thedesign world that celebratesto revise its Green Guides, the guidelines that dictate the use of flaws and the organicthe flaws and the organicenvironmental claims in marketing, for the first time since 2012. details of the gemsdetails of the gems ratherIt opened up the process to public comment, accepting input on rather than thethan the perfectly flawlessthe guides through late April 2023. perfectly flawlessstyle, she says. Sara Yood, deputy general counsel at the Jewelers Vigilance Branstrator also seesCommittee, says the FTC has not provided any updates on when it style. unique cuts becoming moreexpects to respond to the comments, nor has it said anything pub-Natasha Braunwart,popular, even beyond thelicly on the topic since mid-May, when it held a recycling brand and CSRtypical fun cuts, likeworkshop in Washington, D.C.manager, Columbiakites and hexagons. She says the FTC can proceed in one I think thatsof three ways: releasing a draft set Gem House leading toof revised guidelines for review and this growingRing from Fie Isolde featuringcomment, releasing an additional set appreciationa pear-shaped amethyst of questions for review and comment, with independent designers who are finding their ownor holding additional workshops on designs, their own cuts, new ways to do things, she saidparticular topics.in her AGTA talk.Unfortunately, we have no idea Another trend she noted was the emergence ofwhen this will happen, but it is re-marketed cuts for traditional stones, such as theeagerly anticipated, Yood says.Fuli Cut from peridot miner Fuli gemstones,In the meantime, one which is based on an antique cushion. undeniably green prac-Navneet Gems, which exhibited at theticethat of buying GJX show, said it had a great response toand selling existing its recently debuted portrait-cut rubies. jewelrycontinues to I think cutting is going to be again momentum in really interesting space to watch thisfine jewelry as con-coming year, Branstrator said. sumers, particularly younger consumers, THE STORY MAKES THE SALE aim to fulfill their Some credit for recent purchasingdesire for something trends undoubtedly has to go to the creativethats both unique and marketing behind the gemstones. sustainable. Imperfect stones require a bit of leaning in. For[AGTA's] largest grow-example, instead of avoiding drawing attention to aing segment of membership is gemstones inclusions, maybe a seller chooses to en- estate dealers, Ford said during his hance and market its interesting clarity characteristics. talk at the show.Like, with sapphire, maybe [a cutter] puts theSome of those goods are being re-growth zone right under the table and you market that aspurposed in melee. Some of the goods are an interesting component to the stone rather than trying tohopefully generational and theyll find that hide it, Branstrator said. next new home. The market is changing; the Unsurprisingly, responsible sourcing also remains a hot topic inworld is changing. 60 STATE OF THE MAJORS 2024"