b'THE STATE OF RETAIL DIAMONDSJEWELRYCOLORED DESIGN STONESTHECOCKTAIL Gemella Jewels Double Bubble necklace in 18-karat yellow gold JEWEL with a 1.38-carat peridot ($5,180)AAnd yet, designers are having a blast with the cocktail ring,The look is so popular its bold diamond or gemstone set into a chunky gold setting is hardly anything new, right?spawned a cousin, the cocktail pendant. experimenting with settings and gem selection to give the style, whichGemella produces luscious gem-dates back to the Prohibition era, their own spin. The mood is bright andstone pendants in a thick gold setting on buoyant, very post-pandemic and celebratory, conjuring up drinks by theits signature heavy ball chain while Retrouvas pool in Palm Springs.new Loop rings are the brands latest innovation that make a simple gem-The style is a replacement for what we used to dub the right-handstone ring feel utterly unique. ring. With self-purchasing the new consumer mood in jewelry, ratherArielle Ratners Power Pinky is undeniably classic and elegant, and like than jewelry only for engagements and anniversaries, theres no need tothe rest of these jewels, super-bold but intended for daily wear, not just delineate styles of rings.special occasions.WAVEST aking a step back from color to include diamonds and metals in the conversa-tion, theres been a big shift in shapes recently. Graphic, geometric designs are giving way to more organic, wavy looks. The trend is a good exercise in affirming ones brand identity. For a company thats heavily influenced by Art Deco, its a perfect one to skip. For designers who resonate with curving lines, the trend is a great one to embrace. Todays waves in jewelry are mirroring a trend thats taken home decor by storm in recent years, with product design inspired by the curving and not-so-Ondyn Sparkler serious shapes of movements like the 1980s Memphis Group.Earrings in 14-karat yellow With softer angles prevailing in furniture and home designlike the resur- gold with 1.9 gence of Italian architect Ettore Sottsass curving mirrorit was only a mattercarats of diamonds ($6,500)of time until certain designers rendered their own jewelry interpretations.Emerging brand Ondyns entire line is based on swirling, sensual shapes. With nearly every piece articulated and moving along with the wearer, Ondyn is perfect-ly suited to wave-like designs. Aurelia Demarks Ric Rac collection is an elegant and sculptural take on wavy shapes with its textured wavy bangles and rings that feel like instant heirloom pieces. For its 15th anniversary collection, Jemma Wynne transformed simple bands and cuffs into a wavy motif accented with diamonds and colored gemstones. Aurelia Demark Ric Rac Bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold ($6,385)64 STATE OF THE MAJORS 2023'