b'pearl jewelry skyrocketed 137 percent.least because many of them are disrupting Shoppers want to craft jewelry looksthe traditional concept of jewelry, be it by that are eclectic and individualized tousing different hitherto non-jewelry ma-their tastes and personalities. terials, different techniques, or different Jewelry is incredibly personal and is astones, or because theyre pushing the form of self-expression, so its exciting toboundaries of aesthetics and question-see how our customers embrace new ma- Lauren Adriana Sliceing the role of jewelry. terials and pair them with one-of-a-kindring with diamondsSome lean to a fast-fashion [aesthet-pieces, says Lee, like pairing a signetand red spinels inic], while others remain occasion and 18-karat blackened ring from the 1970s with diamond tennisand rose gold statement piece makers.bracelets or layering gold chains with a stackOne thing is for surethe independent of mismatched eternity bands.contemporary designers market share ofThe collectors who patronize Phillips andthe consignment space and the auction space isSothebys also gravitate to the unique, and sellersonly growing. shouldnt underestimate their appetite for the non-tra- The traditional larger houses are sitting up and pay-ditional pieces contemporary jewelry designers have to offer, asing attention to these smaller designers, says Redmayne. [They evidenced by the aforementioned demand for brands like Hem- are] crafting new collections with a stronger contemporary aesthetic merle and Silvia Furmanovich.that is a nod to the independent designers of today.I love that the very definition of fine jewelry is constantly evolving thanks to these fantastic talents pushing boundaries,says Redmayne. Who would have guessed just a few years ago that a concrete ring set with diamonds (Studio Renn) would sell, that twisted4 Tips bamboo (Silvia Furmanovich) could be set with diamonds and gemstones, that carbon fiber could be mixed with pearls (Fabio Salini) and that a Big Mac and Legos would be worn inF O R S M A RT I N V E S T I N G W I T H 18-karat gold (Nadine Ghosn)? CO N T E M P O R A RY B R A N D S NAMING FAVORITESSothebys Everett says Emmanuel Tarpin, David Michael Jewels (handmade by identical twin brothers David and Michael Robinson) and Ana Khouri are all risk-takers hedThe RealReals Steffi Lee gives advice on building a collection of con-recommend collecting today.temporary labels likely to retain their value over time. I am continually amazed by the ways young designers innovate and push boundaries, he says. Even when you1. QUALITY SHOULD NEVER BE COMPROMISED. think its all been done, someone comes along and createsFocus on materials that retain value such as 18-karat gold, precious something really new. gemstones and other fine materials. These hold an intrinsic value over Everett calls the more established Shaun Leane and Sol- anything plated.ange Azagury-Partridge, two of the greatest designers work- ing today. True innovators, pieces from both their collections2. PURCHASE FROM TRUSTED AND VERIFIED will become more and more collectible over time. JEWELERS TO ENSURE QUALITY BACKING.Redmayne, meanwhile, adds AlexandraThe RealReal has hundreds of experts and brand authenticators, Jefford, Tito Pedrini, Nadia Morgen- including gemologists, who inspect every item we sell so you can be sure thaler, Atelier Zobel, andyoure shopping with a trusted source.Giovanni Corvaja to his list of recom- 3. DONT BE AFRAID TO BUY SOMETHING DIFFERENT.mended designersIts easy to gravitate toward pieces that are trending. However, theres to follow.a fun treasure hunt to be had when you dive into vintage jewelry or Theseunbranded jewelry.designers excite me for a number4. CHOOSE JEWELRY THAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.of reasons, notAs a result of the pandemic, were seeing such a strong shift in the world of jewelryits become a lot less serious and more fun and expressive.Jewelry is such an integral part of personal style that there really are no rules.Solange Azagury-Partridge Hot Pink Diamond Scribbles Ring with 2.01-carat diamond set in 18-karat white gold and rhodium with lacquer NATIONAL JEWELER 53'