60 STATE OF THE MAJORS 2026 Oak and Luna that debuted in September 2025. The fine jewelry designer partnered with the demi-fine jewelry brand to introduce her eponymous brand to a younger demographic with a more approach- able price point while keeping its luxurious aesthetic. Maccieri, the Muse-represented designer, incorporates various metals as well as other materials in her work. Coming from the watch industry, where she worked as a senior watch manager and designer for many years with Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., and Ferragamo, she often uses titanium for her Carpe Diem pendants. “I wanted to develop many pieces in 18-karat gold of course, but also in brown resin, in ceramic, in titanium, always with a touch of gold,” Maccieri says. “I feel that playing with gold and other materials always offers this preciousness and refinement that a jewel must have.” Titanium and aluminum are used in her watch-like Carpe Diem pieces because of the materials’ durability and are paired with touches of gold for balance. “It’s very important to be creative, to be yourself, to follow your DNA, but at the same time it’s im- portant to find the balance between creativity and rationality, to not exaggerate with gold,” she says. Maccieri says as the price of gold continued to rise, suppliers offered to make her the same chain but lighter. However, this was not an option because if the piece was too light it would not align with her standards. She prefers to change materials instead of offering a lighter piece. “Of course there is gold, but there are so many materials. It could be aluminum, ceramic, titanium,” says Maccieri. “For me, gold should not always be the protag- onist. We have this saying in Italian, ‘la ciliegina sulla torta,’ which is the cherry on the cake. I really like the fact that we refine with a touch of gold.” CREATIVITY WINS There is no replacement for gold. In fact, the price of the precious metal has only increased its desirability. “Our customers aren’t buy- ing less gold, they’re just buying more thoughtfully,” Shanker says. Molofsky says, “I really believe that gold jewelry has become a bit of a flex. You can actually wear your investment on your sleeve, literally. “Gold—it’s like money in the bank.” While the use of alternative materials like wood and leather is increasing, the chunky and sculp- tural gold pieces that have been popular are not going anywhere. What’s truly trending now is uniqueness and creativity. Prices are high and the way brands can stand out is to remain true to their message with designs that are uniquely, and recognizably, theirs. Lichtenberg sees it as a test that only the best will survive, especially for independent designers like herself. “There’s a quote in France saying, ‘Difficult times make strong people. Easy times make weak people.’ What’s happening is going to make us strong,” she says. RETAIL THE STATE OF DIAMONDS JEWELRY DESIGN COLORED STONES Marie Lichtenberg’s sterling silver “Magic 8 Ball” objet d’art created in collaboration with Mattel ($16,800). Two Anna Maccieri Rossi “Carpe Diem” pendants featuring an 18-karat yellow gold star that ticks like the seconds hand on a watch. The pendant at left has a green guillochè enamel dial in a titanium case while the one at right has a blue aventurine glass dial in a golden titanium case with brown resin. Harwell Godfrey's platinum “High Time 4:20” watch bracelet featuring tsavorites, diamonds, sapphire crystal, and titanium (price upon request)
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