T he jewelry industry has been struggling under the weight of the unprecedented price of gold but among jewelry designers, a trait is emerging from the tumult. The best among them are not just making thinner pieces or repricing merchandise over and over again. They are learning to be more flexible, creative, and intentional. Designers are embracing the use of materials like wood and leather, creating smaller yet more thoughtful collections, and in some cases, leaning into the investment value of gold when telling stories through their jewelry. To paraphrase one designer interviewed for this story, the only way out is to follow the gold price, which has gone straight up. In 2025, gold was $2,625 an ounce. So far in 2026, the price has basically doubled ($5,340 was its 2026 peak as of press time), says David Siminski, vice president of sales and marketing at United Precious Metals. The problem is not just gold. The other precious metals have followed its path. Platinum was $800 an ounce in 2025. As of press time, it was about $1,960. SURVIVE WILL VE VE The price of gold has risen to unprecedented levels, affecting how many pieces designers can make at once, which materials they use, and how they position themselves to stand out in a market where mistakes are costly. BY NATALIE FRANCISCO NATIONAL JEWELER 53 Marie Lichtenberg’s “Check” locket with white and black diamonds totaling 4.28 carats on an 18-karat yellow gold “Rosa” classic chain ($40,200)
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