b'THE STATE OF RETAIL DIAMONDSJEWELRYCOLORED DESIGN STONES4 SpeciesIdentification Takes a Step Forward S SEF also has led the researchof DNA recovered from as little as 0.0115printing service to the trade, beginning with regarding DNA fingerprinting andcarats of the pearl, ivory, or precious coral.ivory in 2019, it also created the option of tracing species identification of biogenicThe research and resulting method help togems back to their species-related and geograph-gems for years, including pearlsaddress fraud or illegal trading of these bio- ic origin, leading to important information about and, more recently, ivory and coral.genic gems, SSEF said, by separating speciesthe provenance of historic jewelry pieces. Studies done in partnership with the In- protected by bodies like the Convention onSSEF said it is now focusing its DNA stitute of Forensic Medicine at the Universi- International Trade in Endangered Species ofresearch on new methods that would allow it ty of Zurich resulted in a patented method ofWild Fauna and Flora from those that arent.to screen many DNA sequences from smaller species identification using minute amountsWhen SSEF started to offer a DNA finger- samples and at lower cost.Some padparadscha-like sapphires from Unstablea new deposit in Madagascar changed Padparadscha- color, leading SSEF to test the material Like Fancyand its stability. Sapphirespadparadscha.Are Put to reporting its findings in 2018.color, in particular pink, padparadscha-like,7the Test In late 2016, a new corundum deposit inThe lab said some of the Madagascar materialorange, and yellow sapphires. Madagascar started producingshowed a very marked shift of color, whichThe lab said its initial 2019 results indicated sapphires of various colors, including a subtleshould require specific disclosure to consumers.such color changes could happen in both unheat-pinkish orange, which the trade often refers to asSSEF noted it would carry out fading tests oned sapphires and those that had been heated at padparadscha and padparadscha-like sapphiresrelatively low temperatures.But some of these stones displayed a distinctwith consent from the client and disclose theIt eventually examined five sapphires with color change over time, shifting from a pinkishcolor stability in the comments section of its re- clear indications of heating at high temperatures orange to just plain pink in a matter of weeksports. The lab also opted not to call the materialand said they also showed a color shift when after exposure to daylight. padparadscha but instead fancy sapphire duesubjected to testing. SSEF tested the color stability of the material,to the color instability.The more recent observations that unstable finding the original color could be restored afterIts findings led the Laboratory Manualcolor centers may be present in sapphires heated quick exposure to UV light. This meant the sta- Harmonisation Committee, comprised of rep- at relatively low temperaturesand now at rela-ble color of these stones was the pink hue, whichresentatives from seven labs across Europe, thetively high temperaturesindicate that virtually is related to the presence of chromium.United States, and Asia, to agree that the termall sapphires in the color range of pink through The unstable hue was yellow, caused by anpadparadscha cant be applied to gemstonespadparadscha and orange to yellow, as well as unstable color center, which is a defect in thewith unstable color.colorless to near-colorless, should be tested for crystal structure that can create color. WhenTo study the area further, the American Gem- their color stability regardless of their unheated said color center was activated, it resulted inological Laboratories spent time collecting dataor heated condition, AGL said in a 2019 article the orange to pinkish orange hue, SSEF said inon gem corundum that might display an unstablein The Journal of Gemmology. 68 STATE OF THE MAJORS 2022'